Surprising Facts About Leather Shoes You Never Knew
A good woman might need a flowing dress, expressive eyes, the wind, and sighs as delicate as jade. But for a good man, a pair of good leather shoes is enough. As a man, you need a decent pair of leather shoes to ensure your character doesn’t look suspicious. Every man should have a formal suit, and a pair of comfortable, beautiful leather shoes is an indispensable part of the ensemble.
When it comes to leather shoes, men have endless stories. Some men, without the strict requirement for business attire, wear leather shoes on semi-formal occasions; some men are devoted to leather shoes and naturally delve deeper into their types and quality; others develop a dependency and high standards for leather shoes due to the demands of their professional attire.
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Suitable formal leather shoes are not only versatile but can also enhance your overall temperament. Let's explore how to choose and distinguish leather shoes scientifically.
Types of Leather Shoes
Leather shoes include Oxford shoes, Monk shoes, Derby shoes, and Loafers. Boots include Chelsea boots, Desert boots, and Martin boots. Before we dive into the types of shoes, we need to know there are two basic styles: Oxford shoes and Derby shoes.
Some might wonder why shoes that look similar are categorized into two main types. The answer lies in their construction and fit.
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Oxford Shoes
The defining feature of Oxford shoes is the closed lacing system where the lacing eyelets are stitched under the vamp, making the shoe fit snugly. If you have wide feet or high arches, wearing Oxfords for a long time can be uncomfortable due to the tight fit. If the instep is too high, the shoe's vamp won't close properly, which is also unattractive and may cause the shoe to deform.
Derby Shoes
Unlike Oxfords, Derby shoes have an open lacing system where the eyelet tabs are sewn on top of the vamp. This allows for adjustable tightness, significantly increasing comfort but reducing formality.
Subcategories of Oxford Shoes:
- Cap-toe
- Wing-tip
- Whole-Cut
- Plain-Toe
As the most classic formal leather shoe, Oxfords are suitable for all business occasions. Every man should have at least one pair of black Oxfords.
Brogue Shoes
Brogues are leather shoes with decorative perforations. While less formal than Oxfords and Derbys, they can still be worn for business. The perforations were originally functional, intended to allow water to drain from the shoes as worn by Scottish workers in marshy conditions 500 years ago.
Monk Shoes
Originally worn by monks, Monk shoes have no laces and feature a buckle instead. They come in single and double buckle styles, with double buckle Monks looking particularly detailed and substantial, making them suitable as formal shoes.
Loafers
Loafers are slip-on shoes without laces, exposing the ankle, often worn without socks. They are convenient to wear and were initially chosen for casual weekend wear, earning the nickname "lazy shoes." Popular since the 1960s, Gucci's loafers remain a fashionable choice.
Chelsea Boots
Chelsea boots originated in Victorian England for horseback riding. They feature low heels, round toes, no laces, and elastic side panels. They are best paired with slim or skinny trousers.
Martin Boots
Martin boots are known for their distinct stitching, with three layers of stitches binding the upper, the leather midsole, and the outsole. Professional Martin boots come in 8, 10, 14, and 20-hole versions and have thick, durable English-style soles.
Types of Leather
Firstly, let's talk about the most common leather, which is calfskin. Calfskin comes in various types, such as Full Grain, Smooth leather, Top Grain, and Corium.
- Full Grain: The top layer of cowhide, also known as full-grain leather, is the best and rarest type of cowhide without any damage. Therefore, its price is generally higher.
- Smooth Leather: Apart from Full Grain, we often encounter smooth leather, which is a type of Full Grain cowhide. However, due to certain animal skin patterns not being prominent or shoemakers aiming for specific effects, smooth leather is created. This is also the source of smooth leather.
- Corrected Grain (Top Grain): What is usually referred to as top-grain leather? It typically refers to Corrected Grain, which is a variation of Top Grain. It is slightly below the true top layer of cowhide (Full Grain) due to minor imperfections and damages that prevent it from being selected as Full Grain. Therefore, during processing, it is often repaired and polished to conceal these flaws. Despite being repaired, top-grain leather retains softness and durability, resembling Full Grain in appearance but with lower value.
- Horsehide: Besides cowhide, another common leather material is horsehide. Horsehide is an expensive leather known for its softness, durability, and the fact that it becomes shinier with wear. Prices are usually 1.5 to 2 times higher than those of similar-grade calfskin.
- Sheepskin: Sheepskin is one of the softest leather materials. Its natural elongated grain patterns give it an even more elegant and delicate appearance compared to cowhide. Sheepskin pores are very fine and slanted, making it softer and more delicate than cowhide, and easy to dye. It mainly consists of goatskin and lambskin. Lambskin has a rich, soft, and fatty feel, making it an excellent choice for lining leather goods.
